Well what can I say? This was going to be a test and a half - and boy was I right!
Day one - surfing on broken waves - i.e. once the wave has crashed then you try and catch it. One down fall - you have about 5 seconds to ride the wave, that includes trying to get on your board and stand up. If you fall off, which you most likely will the first 5 years, then you inevitably scrape your knees on the sand - my knees bled! :( Above all that, it was awesome!
Day two - surfing from the green zone - i.e. paddle out to behind where the waves break, sit on your board and chill then choose a wave and paddle like bilio! One problem - I couldn't balance and was wobbling more than a weeble - and I did fall down - out of my depth in the sea. Was very uncomfortable for little old 6'6" me and decided that following a single attempt to catch a wave I would no longer be going into the green zone without sufficient number of well trusted friends! (Keilloh, Greg, Adi, Ant, Aikman, Jones, Liggett - where were you all?)
Day three to five - bailed! And left for Brisbane on the greyhound bus.
Surfin looks awesome fun - but without feeling comfortable out of your depth in the ocean then your screwed - royally! Sorry guys I failed!
Next try will be in the company of nearest and dearest only - surfers are just too laid back to save your life - remember that kids!
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